Testaccio, the working-class district between the historic centre of Rome, and the industrial quarter of Ostiense, is on the edge of city, and always has been. At its heart, a mountain of pottery shards dumped by ancient Roman shipping merchants at the nearby docks of the Tiber River - the so-called "Monte Testaccio" (now home to some of Rome's great discos). This is AS Roma (Serie A football) heartland. A tough place -the Roman equivalent of the "cockney" London of West Ham - with families traditionally of employees of the local mass-scale slaughterhouses. Thus organ meat dishes are a long-standing specialty of trattorias here, what is known as "the fourth quarter" - throw away meat products sent home with the poor workers for their families and turned into delicacies by "mama". But as we see elsewhere in Rome, significant change is underfoot. As the community prepares to welcome a new marketplace, Testaccio is ready to redefine what it means to live and work in Rome.